Friday, 30 October 2015

Acquisitions: Military Officers Hat Tin

I got this military officers hat tin at one of the local antique shops. I don't know the age of the tin, though I have seen this style of hat tin in WWI and WWII displays at museums. Inside the tin was a hunting stock, white bow tie and 15 assorted stiff collars.

Military officers hat tin.

Inside the hat tin.

Wing collar.

Wednesday, 28 October 2015

Acquisitions: Birthday Punch

I just received a stack of Punch Magazines for my 18th birthday. The stack consists of five one-year bound copies of Punch from 1875, 1877, 1880, 1881 and 1882. The Punch Magazines are fully illustrated and make a great resource for historic fashion, politics and other bits of history. Here are some prints from Punch 1880.

TRIUMPH!

The above print is a cartoon of William Gladstone after he won the April 1880 election and became prime minister.

OUR DEFENDERS.

THE NEW STAMP DUTY.

I also got my self a pair of late 19th century field glasses with case. 



Sunday, 18 October 2015

Frock Coat: Prototype

Here is a prototype of my frock. I made the prototype so I could test fit and practise coat making techniques. The prototype is made out of a cheap wool melton close in weight to the blue superfine cloth I will make my final coat with.

This prototype turned out so well that I will use it as my frock coat until I finish my other one. This way I don't feel a need to rush my good one.

Front

Back

Friday, 2 October 2015

Frock Coat: Materials

I've begun gathering the materials for making my frock coat. There are many materials that go into making a frock coat. So it may take some time to collect all of the necessary materials. I've put a lot of time in to researching the correct materials and I've had lots of help finding them.

 I'm using a light blue Shetland Tweed cloth for the coat which is a bit unusual. I have seen one original Tweed frock coat, so they did exist, but I don't think they were very common. I believe a Tweed frock coat would have been a bit of a novelty. A Tweed frock coat would probably have been more casual than one made from black or navy blue Superfine.

Update 18 Oct 2015: I've found a sours for blue Superfine so I've decided to use Superfine as it matches the original.

I've got some vintage silk velvet for the collar. I have brown polished cotton for the pockets and white polished cotton for the sleeve lining.

I still need the collar canvas, chest canvas, chest padding, sacking and the body lining.


Tweed and silk velvet.

Brown and white polished cotton.

I got this photo at an antique fair about two years ago. I think the coat in the photo is a perfect example of a frock coat.

Photo from 1870. I like the tie.

Here's another perfect example of a frock coat. I decided to use the pattern I copied from this coat, instead of the one I drafted from Devere's 1866 drafting manual.

Original mid 1850s frock coat. The coat is made from a blue Superfine. 

I love the contrast of the velvet collar.

I like the shape of the lapel.
Update: I now have the collar canvas. I still need the chest canvas, chest padding, sacking and the body lining.

Thursday, 1 October 2015

1890s PJ's

This is a draft for a pair of pyjamas from the The Cutter's Practical Guide, 1898. I used this pattern a little while ago when I needed a new pair of pyjama trousers. It work out quite well. From start to finish the trousers took three hours. I made the pyjamas out of same material as my waistcoat, a few posts back, and I still have at least 12 yards left. That's plenty left over if I want to make a matching pyjama jacket.


The spats have nothing to do with pyjamas.





Here's my pyjama trousers that I made.