Tuesday, 24 December 2013

Victorian Shirt Reference

For my Victorian shirt, I will use a pattern from The Cutter's Practical Guide to Cutting Shirts, Undergarments, Collars, Cuffs, Aprons, and Specialty Clothing for Various Occupations by W. D. F. Vincent, 1890. I don't think there's too much difference between shirts from the 1850s and shirts for the 1890s except in the collars and cuff.


Here are the two drafts I'm using. Since the fronts and backs of the shirts are interchangeable, I'm going to use the back DIA.1. and the fronted forepart DIA. 9. I'm doing this so that I don't have to make a yoke. Removing the yoke reduces the time and effort required to make the shirt.



Here are various fronts for the fronted forepart. For my shirt, I'm going to use a tucked or pleated front, as shown on DIA.6. Vincent said that tucked or pleated shirts were the most popular style of shirt around the 1860s.


Monday, 23 December 2013

Getting started on my 1858 outfit

I'm making an outfit for my volunteering at Fort Langley, a Hudson's Bay Company fur trade post in British Columbia. I'm documenting it here as part of my independent study course.

The outfit I'm making would be worn by a clerk or a gentleman of the Company. It would have been someone who would have nicer clothes than an average fur trader. I chose this type of outfit because I can wear my favourite hat: a beaver top hat.

The pieces for the outfit
Shirt
For the shirt I'm going to use a pattern from The Cutter's Practical Guide to Cutting Shirts, Undergarments, Collars, Cuffs, Aprons, and Specialty Clothing for Various Occupations by W. D. F. Vincent, 1890. I don't think there's too much difference between shirts from the 1850s and shirts for the 1890s except in the collars and cuff.

Trousers
I think peg top pants were the most popular style of trousers in the 1850s. As far as I can find in my research, this style has a smaller bottom of about 16 inches at the ankle, instead of 17 or 18 inches.

Waistcoat
A single breasted shawl collar waistcoat with five to six buttons.

Coat
I haven't decided whether I'm making myself a coat because it's such a big project. I'm already making one for a friend, and I'm not sure how much I can get done in the next few months. If I do make one for myself, it will be a frock coat.

Top Hat
I might make a top hat if I can get the materials. I will be making some of the tools to make a top hat in my woodworking class. If I don't get a top hat made this year, I have a vintage beaver top hat that I can wear.

Sunday, 8 December 2013

Stack of books


About two or three weeks ago I met with a bespoke kilt maker he lent me a stack of tailoring book and guides. I think I can learn a lot from these books. I really enjoy looking at all the illustrations.



The Modern Tailor Outfitter and Clothier



Systems of Cutting by W.D.F. Vincent

Trousers Vests Breeches & Gaiters Cutting

Trousers Vests Breeches & Gaiters Cutting

Trousers Vests Breeches & Gaiters Cutting

Trousers Vests Breeches & Gaiters Cutting

Trousers Vests Breeches & Gaiters Cutting

The Art of Garment Making


 This has lots of great ilistratons
The Art of Garment Making



The Art of Garment Making


The Art of Garment Making



The Art of Garment Making

The Art of Garment Making

The Art of Garment Making


Sunday, 17 November 2013

Acquisitions: New iron



Today i got a vintage no steam iron for $20. It's not quite heavy enough. It's about 4 to 5 pounds. I would like one that is about 10 pounds. I'm still very happy whth it. Hopefully soon I can get it checked by a electrician to make sure it's safe.
 



I also got some heavy wool fabric to make an ulster top coat for a friend.


Monday, 4 November 2013

Victorian Outfit

Here's some work I've done over the past year.

These are some photos of the first outfit I made. I'm wearing a vintage bowler hat I bought at the vancouver flea market, and a frock coat I just finished making.



In the two photos below I'm wearing the full outfit I made, as well as my vintage top hat



Cream Waistcoat

Cream WaistcoatCotton twill vest. This is one of my recent pieces. I drafted it myself using The Cutter's Practical Guide 1893-1898 by W. D. F. Vincent 
http://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/1893to1898cuttersguide.htm
The drafting went very smoothly until I got to the part that referred to the 'Vincent's Registered Square' - whatever that is. From there on I had to wing it.
Vest Button Detail
Self covered button detail.

Victorian Tailoring Reference Books

I've been researching Victorian tailoring and am working on drafting my own patterns.
These are the books I'm using.
The Victorian Tailor
The Victorian Tailor by Jason Maclochlainn is from my own collection. It's a great general guide for period tailoring.
Book_MensGarments
Men's Garments 1830-1900 by R.I. Davis is a reference book from the library. Since it's the only copy in the Vancouver library system, I was able to sign it out for one week. It's a great reference for pattern drafting. I find the patterns very easy to draft and the instructions are easy to follow.
Book_CompleteGuidetoPracticalCutting
The Complete Guide to Practical Cutting by Edward Minister & Son is an interesting book to look through, although I didn't use it for any of my current projects. It has really good information on regulations for 1850's military uniforms.